Friends have asked how we’re affected, and I’ll say quite simply: We’re not. We live in a tower of mostly Western ex-pats, complete with a pool and an indoor playground. Transportation has been haywire, so Joe had to walk all the way home from work on Monday evening, when things were really crazy. Since the main street is shut down, the normally quiet winding road in front of our building is buzzing with cars. The playroom is overrun with too-rowdy older kids home since schools were closed, which, you know, is mildly annoying because it isn’t fun for Luca.
But that’s it. We’re fine. We’re safe. We’re just watching with interest to see what will come of this protest.
The students want full universal suffrage, what they say they were promised in the 1997 handover from the UK, but Beijing would rather pre-approve any candidates for chief executive, the top job in the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region.
We’re here in Hong Kong as guests. I have no stake in Hong Kong’s future other than as a resident of this world. But… come on, it’s a fight for freedom and democracy.
The journalist in me has been itching to visit the protests at night, hear the peaceful chanting with my own ears, see the waving cell phone screens lighting the night, and talk to students about what they hope will change with this giant sit-in.
Could this be the biggest nonviolent demonstration since Martin Luther King, Jr.? I just want to see it.
But consulates and embassies will always send out warnings to us, whichever country we’re posted: Even protests intended to be nonviolent can turn. Better to stay away from such crowds.
And I’m pregnant, so I would not want to risk exposing myself to tear gas.
Oh, did I bury the lead there? Yes, I’m pregnant. Expecting in spring. More on that later.
So I’ve been following the events on the news and Facebook, praying the Chinese army doesn’t decide to respond in violence. Praying that no violent-minded person or group darkens the tone.
On the news, the protests look pretty crazy, but from what I’ve seen and heard, these are just kids, students sitting under floodlights and doing their homework behind the barricades between chants and speeches. I’ve heard some news reports have referred to them as “riots,” which, wow—they are not, to my understanding. No broken windows, no looting, no violence. Perhaps it's the influence of years as part of the stereotypically proper Britain, but the protest is mainly polite, Hong Kong-British-accented kids blocking the road.
And while I won’t go down there at night to risk tear gas
and rubber bullets (or an international incident), Joe and I decided to wander
over this morning to see a piece of history.
Ok, before anyone freaks out (Mom, I’m looking at you), we visited the protests during the safest possible time: The morning. Night is where the action is, and this morning there were several little clusters of families checking out the scene. I saw a couple that looked like they were walking the normally-busy road for exercise.

We saw another young ex-pat girl pointing to signs hung on the overpass, translating the Cantonese to English for her parents and two younger sisters.

The scene was fascinating. We walked from our neighborhood right through the center of downtown on the main thoroughfare, which was neatly lined with groups of protestors. It was surreal, and an interesting view of the city at a standstill.
At first, it felt like a university quad, young people sprawled on cement barriers texting, others sitting around chatting. Some napping.

Except the mood was too muted. Too exhausted. These students have been living on the street for days. Groups of protestors sat under tent shelters manning stations of donated water bottles, snacks, and donated umbrellas.
Some manned stations to recycle cans and water bottles.

Others, wearing masks over their noses and mouths, collected trash in big black bags they organized in piles for removal to dumpsters down some alleys.

“Have you ever seen a protest like this?” A trash collector asked me after I snapped a picture of him and his friends throwing bags into the dumpster. He was clearly educated, with a pristine Hong Kong-British accent behind his face mask.
“I haven’t,” I said. “You guys are cleaning up trash—that’s pretty awesome.”
“Thanks,” he said.

It’s a conscientious crowd that clearly cares deeply for the city and hopes their civil disobedience will move the giant that is Beijing.
I saw one photo on Facebook of a police bus with an anarchy sign spray-painted in the front window. A strip of cardboard sat under the windshield wiper, a polite apology written in marker. “This doesn’t represent us,” the note read.
Another picture showed a few protestors trying to scrub clean a wall that someone else had sprayed with a red line, in anger over the police using tear gas.
Yet another showed protestors sharing umbrellas with police officers during last night’s thunderstorm.
Part of me felt strange for acting as the tourist in such a
protest. As a friend of mine pointed out: It’s not a show.
But actually, it is a show. It is a show to prove a point and to make a difference. They want people like me to go down there and see how orderly they are being. To snap pictures and to share them with people like you. To witness.
I have no idea what will come in the next few days—or rather, nights—but for now, what I see is a group of young people fighting for the future of their city, with probably the most well-mannered protest the world has ever seen.










































