Sunday, December 28, 2014

Hong Kong Culture Points, Volume 2

As our newness in Hong Kong begins to wear off (we've got our shipment, celebrated two major holidays, made some friends and settled into something of a routine), I'm still noticing the things that make this city different from others I've experienced. Here are some more Hong Kong culture points:

[Catch up with Hong Kong Culture Points, Volume 1]

1. Accents

Hong Kong is astoundingly diverse. There may be a greater variety of skin color in New York or Los Angeles, but Hong Kong has so many expats that the variety of accents (in English alone) I hear on any given day is astounding: Australian, French, Eastern European, American, British, Canadian, French-Canadian, Filipino, Indian, everything. People settle in Hong Kong from all over the world, and it's fun to hear such color every day. Even among those of Chinese origin, some have a very specific Cantonese accent (I hope this isn’t terribly offensive to anyone, but comedian Russell Peters does a pretty good imitation), and others have an accent closer to that of upper-class Londoners

2. Hot Water
Beware the scalding glass cup

I am a thirsty person, particularly when I’m pregnant, and I can drink water by the liter during a meal. Cold water, that is. Or even room temperature water. But when we visit a dim sum joint or other Asian restaurant in Hong Kong, water only comes HOT. Like, tea temperature hot. This doesn’t work well for thirsty me, let alone for my toddler son, who would burn his mouth. Asking for water that isn’t scalding strikes confusion that usually leads to the server bringing a small bottle of water I could drink in a few gulps. Saying, “No, thank you. I just want whatever water you’re serving HOT, but before you make it hot…” doesn’t work. I’ve finally wised up to realize restaurants serve ice with Cokes, so I'm starting to just ask for a plain cup of ice, as many times as I can get our server’s attention (which is typically about twice), and pour in the water from my steaming mug (or painfully hot glass cup) for Luca and me to share. I’m trying hard to remember to bring my own Nalgene bottle with me from home to obviate the awkwardness.

3. No Pee On Concrete

I’ve heard in mainland China, people peeing (and pooping) in public, on the side of any road, is commonplace. Apparently this practice trickled down (pun intended) to Hong Kong as mainlanders began moving into town at a higher rate when the city became officially part of China again, but from what I’ve heard, it was met with stiff resistance from resident Hong Kongers, and is generally unheard of today, or at least hidden (except for an incident last spring in which Hong Kongers got into a scuffle with mainlanders who let their toddler pee on a busy sidewalk). The sensitivity toward public urination extends also to pets. Our neighborhood, along with most of Hong Kong’s center, has a nice view of green trees climbing the steep mountains that divide the island, but pedestrians are generally concrete-bound. There’s no real grass patch or soft shoulder to let dogs urinate freely, so pet owners carry a water bottle around so they can dilute pee on concrete. Apparently pee on concrete is a particularly nasty offense in the hot, humid summer months. Our building’s outdoor area (“the podium,” where kids ride bikes and scooters) has a small dog-wee section of dirt and grass, but some dogs are particular and prefer not to climb onto that elevated platform to do their business. A friend, who owns one such dog, told me recently that she was tired of the looks she got out on the podium if her dog let loose near where the children play, even when she watered it down, so now she lets her doggie go in the parking garage, where she still dilutes it to prevent smells.

4. Paying by Octopus

Like many metro systems around the world, Hong Kong’s MTR (and public bus) system has its own frequent-user card, the Octopus card. An added bonus? Hong Kongers can pay by Octopus at many convenience stores, taxis, bubble tea stands or even theme-park cafes. It’s an in-between for such a cash society. The Octopus even lets users go into the negative a bit, which is handy in a pinch if I'm out of cash.

5. Small Bills, Please
Cashier making change for my $500 from her purse

Yes, Hong Kong is a cash society, but using big bills can be tricky, and many places won’t accept $1000 bills (about US$130). The next biggest is a $500 bill (US$65), and that’s even a problematic one for businesses, though sometimes as a customer, that's all I have. In fact, when I’ve paid with a $500 for food, the cashier herself has had to make change from her own wallet before processing my transaction. The first such instance caught me off guard, but I've seen this at chain restaurants and small food shops, so apparently it isn't unheard of. This happened once right at the opening of business, which tells me cafes don’t really stock change for their employees to use at all.


6. Bank-Issued Currency
Top is HSBC (with lion logo); Bottom Bank of China (with building image)

In the United States, dollars are issued by the Federal Reserve and printed by The Bureau of Engraving and Printing. Basically, money comes from the government. Hong Kong dollars, on the other hand, are printed in one location, but private banks are the ones who issue the currency. So my wallet might have bills from HSBC, Standard Chartered or Bank of China.

A Pre-Christmas Escape to Thailand

Before Christmas, our little branch of the Kim clan decided to get away together to somewhere warmer and more spacious than our new city, this Manhattan-on-steroids, Hong Kong. And, luckily for us, the beaches of Thailand are not too far away.

When you think of Thailand, you might think of tiny boats touring gorgeous and famous islands, or of riding elephants or snorkeling or scuba diving. Of eating pad thai and panang curry from tiny, authentic restaurants. I've seen such things in friends' pictures of visits to Thailand.

Joe and I love adventure travel. We've each had a taste in our single lives and in our life together, like when we backpacked through Mexico. So we never in a million years imagined we'd vacation in such an adventurous destination with the express intent of never leaving our resort. But with a food-allergic 2.5-year old, a major baby bump and some killer, unpredictable hip pain, that is precisely what we did.

Our many major life transitions this year meant that peaceful time for the three of us to enjoy each other (with a beach and pool available) was the perfect choice for us.


And what a resort it was. The JW Marriott Khao Lak was a fantastic place to plant ourselves. A lagoon pool wove all around the resort,
including right past our room's back door, so we could literally swim from our room to the beach.

The staff went above and beyond to ensure Luca had safe food to eat. The executive chef or one of his top sous chefs would bring out meals prepared in the central kitchen to whichever resort restaurant we'd chosen for the evening, or even to the pool bar or our room, if we preferred. I'll admit it was disorienting to have top chefs in charge of meals for our toddler, but we were grateful, and Luca loved that he got to eat food that wasn't leftovers I'd brought in a Thermos.

Below are some more pictures of our fantastic, resort-bound vacation filled with beach fun, pool fun, early nights out and time feeding watermelon rinds and bananas to a visiting elephant.

It's a life-phase. Perhaps next time we're in Thailand, we'll be scuba diving and touring James Bond Island. Or perhaps we'll go back to the JW and just relax and enjoy the fresh young coconuts just hacked open and accompanied by a straw and spoon, or returned to the shell ice-blended with a little sugar. Yum.

Oh! Before the pictures, here's a glimpse of Luca's joy in the hours and hours of swimming. He is fearless, and kept jumping in without telling us, so we taught him to yell an announcement of his intentions, to which he added his own little script. His love of being underwater increased after we bought him goggles in the dive shop. His reaction after the first dive with goggles was priceless: "My eyes are better!!"










We told Luca we were heading to a buffet
at the beach, so he insisted
on bringing his bucket of beach tools.


Luca's reaction to the teppanyaki chef lighting onions on fire