Saturday morning was so sunny we
couldn’t bear to stay inside. So, we loaded up Luca and strolled off base to
the Korean War National Museum where he could run around underneath all the war
airplanes.“Aypayn! Aypayn!” he announced as he ran under the wings of the fighters. All the times we’ve driven past the museum, which is right outside the U.S. military base where we live, I’ve often seen kids wandering this outdoor collection. Fun idea, right? But as we walked through, the cries of glee from Luca and other children suddenly seemed a little bit out of place.
Farther back, other vehicles sat
in a menacing row: monstrous tanks and truck missile launchers, some Soviet
made—left behind when the North fled the South—and some American. Harsh
reminders of a part of the Cold War that is technically still going on.
Even more poignant is this statue memorial pictured below. I’d seen it from the road, but never really allowed it under my skin. The men at the top are fictional brothers who met and embraced on a battlefield, one soldier fighting for the North and the other for the South (you can guess which is the bigger dominant man, I’m sure, considering we live in the South).
The crack in the base represents
the divide, but the sign out front suggests the brothers’ embrace represents the
hope of reconciliation. To me, though, standing at the base of this statue, the
true tragedy hit me: It is as if the U.S. Civil War never resolved, but resulted
in two unfriendly countries. Even more intense since Koreans are all one ethnic
group—it was and is truly brother against brother; cousin against cousin.Even more poignant is this statue memorial pictured below. I’d seen it from the road, but never really allowed it under my skin. The men at the top are fictional brothers who met and embraced on a battlefield, one soldier fighting for the North and the other for the South (you can guess which is the bigger dominant man, I’m sure, considering we live in the South).
And worse: From what I understand, many young men and boys were drafted by one side or the other (as in, forced into a truck to go train as soldiers), through no ideology of their own, and others were put in prison camps.
Joe’s grandfather was one of those men. He, his wife and young children had escaped the North, where they lived after the nation split. When the North (with their Soviet and Chinese backers) took Seoul and almost the entire peninsula, he was captured and imprisoned for supporting the South. He eventually escaped the prison camp through cunning and the grace of God, and his entire life story is dramatic and inspiring and should be made into a movie.
Joe's grandmother had a brother who was conscripted by the North during the war; she always told Joe his looks and personality reminded her of that brother, and Joe held a special place in her heart because of it. For years after the war, she checked newspapers for any sign of him or news of what happened to him. Nothing ever came.
Though his grandmother passed away last year in New York, surrounded by children and grandchildren and great grandchildren, his grandfather lives on. He is a piece of history.
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| A "danger" sign on missiles is always off-putting, even if you know they just don't want you to hit your head. |
But there’s a reason the U.S. military has such a huge presence here. And there’s a reason subway stops have survival stations with gear, food and gas masks.
The truth is, however prosperous and peaceful and low-crime and gun-free Seoul may seem, and however low risk there is of the North acting out, this peninsula is not at peace. And its history is not a peaceful one. Saturday was a good reminder.













