Hong Kong Culture Points, Volume 2

As our newness in Hong Kong begins to wear off (we've got our shipment, celebrated two major holidays, made some friends and settled into something of a routine), I'm still noticing the things that make this city different from others I've experienced. Here are some more Hong Kong culture points:

[Catch up with Hong Kong Culture Points, Volume 1]

1. Accents

Hong Kong is astoundingly diverse. There may be a greater variety of skin color in New York or Los Angeles, but Hong Kong has so many expats that the variety of accents (in English alone) I hear on any given day is astounding: Australian, French, Eastern European, American, British, Canadian, French-Canadian, Filipino, Indian, everything. People settle in Hong Kong from all over the world, and it's fun to hear such color every day. Even among those of Chinese origin, some have a very specific Cantonese accent (I hope this isn’t terribly offensive to anyone, but comedian Russell Peters does a pretty good imitation), and others have an accent closer to that of upper-class Londoners

2. Hot Water

Beware the scalding glass cup

I am a thirsty person, particularly when I’m pregnant, and I can drink water by the liter during a meal. Cold water, that is. Or even room temperature water. But when we visit a dim sum joint or other Asian restaurant in Hong Kong, water only comes HOT. Like, tea temperature hot. This doesn’t work well for thirsty me, let alone for my toddler son, who would burn his mouth. Asking for water that isn’t scalding strikes confusion that usually leads to the server bringing a small bottle of water I could drink in a few gulps. Saying, “No, thank you. I just want whatever water you’re serving HOT, but before you make it hot…” doesn’t work. I’ve finally wised up to realize restaurants serve ice with Cokes, so I'm starting to just ask for a plain cup of ice, as many times as I can get our server’s attention (which is typically about twice), and pour in the water from my steaming mug (or painfully hot glass cup) for Luca and me to share. I’m trying hard to remember to bring my own Nalgene bottle with me from home to obviate the awkwardness.

3. No Pee On Concrete

I’ve heard in mainland China, people peeing (and pooping) in public, on the side of any road, is commonplace. Apparently this practice trickled down (pun intended) to Hong Kong as mainlanders began moving into town at a higher rate when the city became officially part of China again, but from what I’ve heard, it was met with stiff resistance from resident Hong Kongers, and is generally unheard of today, or at least hidden (except for an incident last spring in which Hong Kongers got into a scuffle with mainlanders who let their toddler pee on a busy sidewalk). The sensitivity toward public urination extends also to pets. Our neighborhood, along with most of Hong Kong’s center, has a nice view of green trees climbing the steep mountains that divide the island, but pedestrians are generally concrete-bound. There’s no real grass patch or soft shoulder to let dogs urinate freely, so pet owners carry a water bottle around so they can dilute pee on concrete. Apparently pee on concrete is a particularly nasty offense in the hot, humid summer months. Our building’s outdoor area (“the podium,” where kids ride bikes and scooters) has a small dog-wee section of dirt and grass, but some dogs are particular and prefer not to climb onto that elevated platform to do their business. A friend, who owns one such dog, told me recently that she was tired of the looks she got out on the podium if her dog let loose near where the children play, even when she watered it down, so now she lets her doggie go in the parking garage, where she still dilutes it to prevent smells.

4. Paying by Octopus

Like many metro systems around the world, Hong Kong’s MTR (and public bus) system has its own frequent-user card, the Octopus card. An added bonus? Hong Kongers can pay by Octopus at many convenience stores, taxis, bubble tea stands or even theme-park cafes. It’s an in-between for such a cash society. The Octopus even lets users go into the negative a bit, which is handy in a pinch if I'm out of cash.

5. Small Bills, Please

Cashier making change for my $500 from her purse

Yes, Hong Kong is a cash society, but using big bills can be tricky, and many places won’t accept $1000 bills (about US$130). The next biggest is a $500 bill (US$65), and that’s even a problematic one for businesses, though sometimes as a customer, that's all I have. In fact, when I’ve paid with a $500 for food, the cashier herself has had to make change from her own wallet before processing my transaction. The first such instance caught me off guard, but I've seen this at chain restaurants and small food shops, so apparently it isn't unheard of. This happened once right at the opening of business, which tells me cafes don’t really stock change for their employees to use at all.


6. Bank-Issued Currency

Top is HSBC (with lion logo); Bottom Bank of China (with building image)

In the United States, dollars are issued by the Federal Reserve and printed by The Bureau of Engraving and Printing. Basically, money comes from the government. Hong Kong dollars, on the other hand, are printed in one location, but private banks are the ones who issue the currency. So my wallet might have bills from HSBC, Standard Chartered or Bank of China.